Alpine Climbing - The Future of China's Mountaineering

Text / JON OTTO (Zeng Shan) Translation / Ma Demin
A few days ago, the comparison of scribbled grass, on the one hand, is afraid that the reader is ambiguous, and on the other hand it is not rigorous. Now this version has been modified by the author and is relatively accurate. At the same time, reminding the reader to read the original text is more helpful in understanding the author's intention.

Why does it take up to 15 years for Chinese hikers to climb the top of Queer Mountain again?

The Chinese climbers who climbed Mount Everest in the spring of 2003 successfully climbed the summit and surpassed the 7000-meter-high mountain peaks of Muztag. From 1988 when the Chinese and Japanese joint climbers climbed Queer Mountain, Chinese climbers have already made about 20 attempts in Queer Mountain. As a result, most of them can only reach C2 until the most recent day—July 22, 2003. On the day, 6 climbers stood on the top of the Que'er Mountain in windy and cloudy weather.

Our team is composed of 8 amateur climbers from all over the country and two coaches: Ma Yihua (Lama) and myself (JON OTTO). Some players have little experience in mountaineering, and the rest of the team’s experience is careless. The old horse and I add up to 20 years of climbing experience.

Our climb from above C1 is alpine style climbing. The alpine climbing is light and simple. In general, the action is rapid, and the technical complexity of the regular route is high for the climber. Alpine-style climbing is more suitable for mountain peaks of about 6000 meters high and below, so altitude adjustment is not a big problem. In China, climbers have slowly come into contact with this type of climbing.

However, the true alpine climbing is almost absent in China. Due to historical reasons, climbers still need to know more about alpine climbing. Large numbers of people also use Himalaya climbing (also called polar climbing) activities. The Himalayan style requires that you have a fixed base camp. You have to spend time on transporting materials and equipment to each campsite. Fix the ropes on difficult roads, and you often need help from Sherpas at high altitudes. .

The above mentioned are usually necessary at high altitudes above 7000 meters. The enthusiasm of Chinese mountaineers in pursuit of this polar style of climbing (even at some mid-elevation peaks) is an interesting phenomenon. The alpine climbing is a form that is more suitable for a wide range of public climbing. It is a form of climbing. Being closer to nature, it is more suitable for a wide range of people climbing forms, spending less time and using less equipment. However, it also requires certain skills and knowledge. In many countries, most climbers choose alpine climbing, but that is because there are no high mountains in those countries.

However, China has a variety of mountain peaks - relatively easy mountains and difficult middle and low altitude peaks. I think that in the future, more and more Chinese climbers will no longer decide whether to climb by the height of the mountain, but will depend on how easy it is to reach the top of the mountain (route), whether there are fascinating glaciers and exposed blades. Ridges, grade 4 technical terrain, etc... I see this change has gradually begun. Chinese climbers begin to enjoy the joy of alpine climbing. This is why we chose to climb Queer Mountain because of its charming scenery and varied terrain.

In view of this, how to achieve the eight climbers with little experience to climb and safely descend. First, plan to have enough time because there is very little time in the mountains and most teams cannot reach the summit. Many people have the attitude of "climbing a 6,000-meter mountain just a few days." Unless your team has a high rate of increase in effectiveness, and you have a climbing experience and familiarity with the route, you should plan to spend at least 10 days on this high hill.

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