There are only a few specialized writings on the selection of mountaineering routes. We usually only have some experience, and without a systematic analysis, we only know the low latitudes, take the small roads; steep glaciers, take the side track; slow glaciers, on the ice; Towers, ridges, and other jingles. This time, he went to the Tibet Mountaineering Team and found that Comrade Cheng Tianliang wrote a special article in this regard. Moreover, the article contains practical examples. It is recommended to all mountain friends.
Some Problems Should Be Paid Attention to in Mountain Route Selection
Among the factors that lead to the success of mountaineering, the correctness of the mountaineering route choice is of great significance. Crossing the river to solve the tool problem, climbing must solve the route problem.
In the history of international mountaineering, there are many precedents for mountaineering failure due to improper selection of climbing routes. In our country’s mountaineering campaign, due to inappropriate route selection, the example of missed mountaineering opportunities is no more than the example of the fourth march in 1975. After the prominent group set off from the last camp of 8,600 meters, the route deviated from the original plan. The ridge line of the northeastern ridge, using a too low route, has lost its due height, cannot reach the "second stage" as planned, missed the rare first-rate weather cycle, and lost the opportunity to register the land. The whole mountaineering activity has postponed the cycle.
The principle of mountaineering route selection
First of all, it is the principle of security. What is a safe route? From the base camp to the summit, although it is covered with difficult terrain and there are various dangers in the mountains, after taking various technical measures and the team members to play their due technical level, they can guarantee personal safety. This is called safety. Route or success route. For example, the route to the northeast ridge of Mount Everest. Although there are extremely difficult terrains such as “Northern Tower†and “Second Stageâ€, there is extreme oxygen deficiency: ice avalanches, bright and dark cracks, slips, snowstorms and other mountain hazards, but if appropriate fighters are deployed, appropriate measures are taken. Through difficult and dangerous terrain can also be called safe routes.
As for the several comrades who sacrificed on these routes, such as Zong Zongyue (lost contact), Wang Ji (physiological reasons), Shi Ziqing (physiological reasons), Ma Gaoshu (violation of discipline), Shi Mingji (physiological reasons), basic The reason was not the choice of course itself, and the deaths of Wang Hongbao, Nyima Zhaxi, and Luo Lang were all caused by improper route selection.
Second, evacuation and seeking for ease are the second principles in choosing a mountaineering route. To climb a peak of more than eight kilometers, the general hiking route is more than twenty kilometers, and the route of the northeastern ridge of Mount Everest is as long as 35 kilometers. The route is long, and a series of workloads must be added to the transportation of materials, physical conservation, establishment of camps, use of good weather, rescue of injured and sick persons, organization and command, communication and other aspects. This should seek to choose a shorter route under the premise of safety to reduce unnecessary workload and save the players' physical strength.
Third, choose the route according to the topography of the mountain. Mountain climbing is a struggle between man and nature in a special natural and geographical environment. To overcome the difficulties of the natural world, we must understand the environmental characteristics of the activities.
1. The topography of the high mountain areas, from the vertical aspect, has obvious characteristics of zoning, 3500 meters below the forest belt, 3500 autumn - 5000 meters for the grassland meadow belt, 5000-5500 meters for the glacial ice track, 5500 meters - Above 8000 meters is the plateau glacial cold belt, and it is often characterized by a mixture of snow and ice. Glaciers are mainly represented by ice and snow recharge areas, which are sporadic ice and snow on the walls of snow-covered basins and slopes on ridges. Rocks in this area are dominated by frozen weathered broken rocks.
When choosing a mountaineering route, it is necessary to consider how to pass through the various terrains above. When marching in the forest, you should make full use of the roads that the local herdsmen and hunters walk through, and pay attention to the marked directions on the newly-selected routes; the alpine meadows and meadow belts have a wide field of vision and routes are easy to choose, but they should be avoided. Muddy swamps; when selecting routes in glacial-ice tracks, two aspects should be noted: Route selection in glacier zones such as marching along glaciers and on mountain glaciers, routes should be in gutters between glacier sidetracks and glaciers Select; When entering the gentle height of the glacier surface, it should go from the drain to the glacier surface. Try to avoid moving in areas where glaciers melt, such as the ice tower area. When crossing the glaciers, for valley glaciers in low latitudes, the route should be at the top of the junction between the snow basin and the ice tongue, that is, the upper limit of the ice tower, which is the snow line, where the glaciers are narrow and the ice slope is relatively gentle. The boundary between annual snow cover and ablation zone is the exit of the snow-covered basin. Ice and snow are restricted by the terrain here, and a large number of ice cracks are produced below this point, which is safer. For example, at 6300m in the East Rongbu Glacier and 5800m in the Central Rongbu Glacier, the short glaciers in high latitudes, such as the glaciers on the northern slope of the Bogda Peak, should cross the glaciers and should choose smooth and flat ice. The tongue part should not be passed in the area of ​​steep and snowy cracks. In the valleys of high valleys, the ice tongue is still melting strongly. The ice cliffs are full of ice and the ice tongue is not easily traversed. This applies to the principle of crossing in the low latitudes at the exit of the snow basin, for example, The glaciers of Seoul are this type.
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