"Beijing Youth Daily" boarded Tintin's Yangshuo climbing article and the climbers' feelings.
Written vivid and interesting. Everyone can see it for themselves.
I only pick a few problems. Although it is not a big problem, I hope that mistakes and inadequacies should not be spread as far as possible:
* The degree of difficulty "the most common is the American Standard" is inaccurate. The climb of the United States is far less popular than in many European countries. In addition, Americans do not love to travel abroad. Outside the United States, a large number of routes in the world are not difficult for the American YDS system. The oldest route in Yangshuo was not opened by Americans. If we see YDS's report more than that, it's probably because the country's first foreign language is English. I hope that the popularity of climbing in the country has its own degree of difficulty. If you want to use existing difficulty criteria (such as YDS) you need to have a fair amount of people who have an accurate sense of the level. This requires these people to climb a considerable number of fixed-level routes (tens of lines at each level, and include walls, seams, friction, wide seams, etc.)?br>This can't be done at home in a short time.
* "The general location of the section is generally chosen to be a place where it is easy to set a point of protection and rest is a bit more comfortable" is the most important criterion for the section. The route that can be taken from the top of the wall does not necessarily require the length of the segment to be less than half the length of the main rope. In addition, a static rope with a root length of 6 mm or more and the same length as the main rope can be used to complete the full rope length drop, or the use of double rope is also very common. This allows the section chief to have a full length to speed up the climb.
* Pioneer climbing does not necessarily need to set protection points every two or three meters. As mentioned in the article, Tintin had a mechanical plug after ten meters. This is entirely up to the leader himself. There is a route called SNAKE DIKE on YOSEMITE's HALFDOME, and there isn't a place where you can put protection points in the entire 50m segment. On difficult routes, it is not only time-consuming, but also physically demanding. The biggest difference in physical strength between Pioneer climbing and top rope climbing is to stop and do protection.
*bigwall has a special definition. Because the characteristics of the large rock wall are large, so the equipment to be used is greatly regulated. Therefore, it is necessary to use haulbags instead of backpacks to store equipment supplies, and use special hanging books to rest (instead of relying on the search for natural forms of camping). Stairs). The technical feature is that there is a coordinated division of labor between leader and follower so that time is not spent on equipment handling. Traditional bigwall climbing is equipment climbing, so often use a few dozens of equipment. Europe's three major northern walls are mountaineering "walls," and it is not the same as a dedicated bigwall climb. Messner had a book and his English book called "BIGWALLS" talked about his climbing experiences around the world, and at YOSEMITE.
The developed bigwall technology basically has nothing to do with it. A1 ~ A6 six levels is the level of difficulty of climbing equipment, and bigwall not directly related. (bigwall climbing can be used freestyle) A6 this level is the so-called "new wave" equipment climbing difficulty, etc., is now controversial.
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